Tuesday, December 13, 2011

The Motherland

Having not gotten around to writing these posts until the end I can say with certainty, I valued my trip to Ireland the most. I met and visited relatives that I didn't really know that I had before hand. I feel the best way to share this trip is to share the piece I wrote about it for travel writing. This is the final piece I revised for the class. First Natalie, and I helped Melinda celebrate her birthday in Dublin.

 






My Irish Family
A question posed to my dad on a whim resulted in a weekend filled with family history, stories, names, Irish humor, and distant cousins. Every household I visited welcomed me with the same greeting: a simultaneous hand-squeeze, hug, and kiss on the cheek. I’m still not sure whether this greeting followed some Irish form of Xenia or acknowledged family ties. They were my distant cousins, so distant that we weren’t really sure how we were related; if a genealogy term that fits exists, I don’t know it and neither would an average reader. John McGoldrick and my grandfather are first cousins and as far as I could gather they’ve never met. When stationed in Ireland during WWII my grandfather intended to visit John and his wife Lily, but never did, he was in Northern Ireland. John and Lily’s daughter Breda received my email about visiting. The way it seems to be with the Irish family, if you can contact one of them you can reach them all. Breda called her cousin Patricia and arranged my visit to the Homestead. She even planned to accompany me from her house in Dublin until her mother suffered a slight stroke.
In the car to her house and later to the bus station Breda told me of the two relatives who stood in line for the Titanic but never boarded, the wife who told her husband that he couldn’t go to America because he couldn’t get sponsored when in truth she feared he’d leave and never return. There may have been a baby on the way. Of Bridget-Ann Murray, who served as a judge in Philadelphia. With each of these stories I tried to connect how the people were related to me. I would need a genealogy chart of some sort to keep it straight; instead I succeeded in forgetting all of their names.
Breda left me at the bus station in Dublin with specific instructions of how to recognize Patricia: earlobe-length dark hair, a little heavyset—though I would describe her as full-figured and curvy. And her husband Martin, who would be driving: slender and lithe, hair combed to the side covering a growing bald patch. “Don’t tell them I said that, I’m only trying to think of distinguishing features,” Breda said.
Filing off the bus at Sligo, I glanced around and saw a man who could be Martin sitting in a car; he called out “Rebecca?” Unsure of whether he meant me—the name Rebecca has no relation to Heather—or was waiting for someone else, I concerned myself with rescuing my bag from under the bus. A woman fitting Breda’s description of Patricia approached me; she knew my name. Props to Breda for describing everyone aptly. Patricia led me to the car Martin now leaned against—it had been Martin who called out Rebecca, and his mistake became a running joke during my stay.
As the car turned off the narrow, winding road into a gravel drive that ran past a field and up to the house, Patricia and Martin apologized for the construction site. I saw a snug house with a crackling fire. A home—lived in. The small one-story white stuccoed house with dark trim looked like it belonged nestled among the Irish hills. The room inside was furnished with three dark upholstered armchairs; books and paper covered a rocking chair; a small TV in the corner, turned on to the X-Factor; a fireplace with mantel piece covered, in nicknacks, family photos, and a few candles, filled the room with a warm glow.
“Sit by the fire; you must be perished.” Martin pulled up a stool and practically forced me into the seat. I didn’t feel cold, but I enjoy the coziness of sitting beside fires.
After Chinese take-out and tea while sitting around the fire, Patricia pulled me into the next room to show me the photos of my distant relatives hanging on the walls. Martin said, “That room’s cold, she doesn’t want to look at photos.” Patricia pointed out various relatives. Then on one wall…
“There are my grandparents,” I said. They looked down from a photo taken at some cousin’s wedding in the states, when my grandfather still had mutton chops.
“Really, where?”
I pointed them out, and Patricia dragged Martin in, who put on the X-Factor in that room because I had to hear this band.
With ease they drew me into their Irish family humor. The banter called to my mind sitting around the dinner table with my own family. The content differed, but the atmosphere felt the same. Martin referred to me as Rebecca, making his mistake at the train station into a joke. Jason, their son, would say, “Dad, think of what you just said.” And Martin would smile and assure me that he knew my name. Then someone would chime in about Martin going senile, and that they would have to send him to a home soon. In response Martin said, "Just give me a bullet, and bury me."
"You know where you're going? Into the pit that's where,” Patricia said. They had just told me about a lake that would disappeared into the ground every now and then leaving behind a muddy pit. A folk story explained these features.
“Don’t tell her that, she has to sleep in that room by herself.”
Through the interruptions, the story they told involved a giant with a third eye in the middle of his head. Someone shot out the eye with an arrow and it landed, somehow creating the lake, or maybe the pit in the center. The logistics of the story never became clear to me.
In the evening, after a visit to Patricia’s brother, Patricia commented about the house: “It’s not modern, like Peter’s.” However, I felt the age gave it character, and family history filled it with life. My great-great uncle John Naughton built it in the 40s. Patricia worried about how others would see it, especially coming from the city. I protested that these qualities made the house special. Of course I may be a country girl at heart. I can imagine myself living on a modern day farm with the amenities of running water, all of which they had. Even the T.V. had digital; growing up I never had cable and when analog switched to digital we never bothered to get it. Patricia agreed, “Filled with happy memories.” She grew up in the house, a better place to raise children than town she and Martin lived in. I could imagine running through the hills, acres of fields to play in.
From a closet Patricia pulled out a plastic bag. “My grandpa was always working on something with his hands; I couldn’t bring myself to throw it away.” She extracted a fish net she’d watched him make with a nail on a block of wood. The old skills have been forgotten.
The next morning, a little after noon, I put on wellies, and Patricia showed me around the homestead. Ozzy, their dog, ran ahead of us, ducking under the gate, then circling back and waiting as Patricia opened it. At the edge of an old orchard, where a clump of trees now grows in the corner, used to stand the cottage my great-grandmother Catherine Naughton grew up in before she moved to the states. Shoes squelching in the mucky fields, we walked through the homestead: old sheds, a barn once part of a house, tractors old and new, two horses, a bull and a young cow shut inside the barn. The bull, because of a tendency to run off, and the young cow because of a need to be dehorned so he couldn’t hurt the others in the field.
The cows approached as we entered their field, still keeping their distance, but showing curiosity. Patricia pointed down to a lower field, where once she drew water from the spring well after school. Wearing boots I ventured through the muddy barrier to see it. Patricia, in old sneakers, followed carefully. The well now overgrown served different uses, its water directed to the animals.
I will remember the laughter we shared while sitting around the fire talking, watching the X factor. Martin rolling cigarettes, while Ozzy leaned against his legs. The dog and his master forming one entity. Patricia adventurous with no concern about trekking through muck in the drizzle on a cold day. Jason teasing his father. Martin giving Ozzy the command to watch Jason. The dog’s eye intent on his target, and his defensive bark when Jason feinted at Martin. Patricia telling stories late into the night. The familial unity I felt part of.
Those few days, an unexpected treasure. At one point I dreamed of seeing Ireland. Later I thought I could visit the place my ancestors came from. I never imagined before this semester that I’d meet relatives in Ireland. I can’t quite fully believe I actually went to Ireland; it seemed a very distant impossible place to reach. Now it’s not so distant and I have a reason to go back: family to visit.


 












Monday, December 12, 2011

Bicycle Grease





My castle bike, has for the most part treated me well. (insert Well puns here). There was one day a couple weeks back when I went to ride it and the chain derailed. That day it took me at least 15 min. I'd been intending to go to town, but had to postpone that trip because by the time I'd washed the grease off I no longer had time to go before class.

Friday morning, we had to part with our bikes. In the morning before we had to return one of my lovely roommates, Melinda, and I took our last bike ride. We started off going through Old Well. I decide to try shifting the gears, and the chain derails. I'd successfully fixed it before, but this time the chain had fallen off both gears. As I worked to fix it, I commented to Melinda that ever body in Well probably knew how to fix a derailed chain.

Help came in the form of the dutch postman, pausing from his deliveries on the other side of the street to see if I needed help. At least I'm guess that's what he said, I only know a handful of dutch words. Using gestures, and pointing he guided me through the process of putting the chain back on. I didn’t have any trouble understanding him even though he spoke dutch throughout our interaction. 

Bike up and running again, I thanked him with my one word of dutch  (okay so not my one word, there are three that I use and I also have piked up a few food words like kaas). I happened to have napkins in my pocket, which I shared with him, he’d gotten a smidgen of grease on his fingers in the process of helping me. The postman returned to his bike and delivery rounds and then Melinda and I were off again, biking alongside the river.

Just under the bridge and past the animals, it derails again. A test of my new learned skill and we’re off again. Third times the charm. The rest of the bike ride was lovely. And that is the story of how the dutch postman taught me how to fix a derailed chain.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Apologies for the very long blog hiatus

Well finals are done, papers are all turned in, I leave to go home on Wednesday and I have half a semester of blog posting to catch up on. That and laundry and packing. But first is is time for some well deserved sleep.